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Kitchen Cabinet Installation - Step-By-Step Instructions on how to Set up Kitchen Cabinets Oneself

Since you've your new kitchen cabinets, you are ready to move on on the next big phase.....Putting in your kitchen area cupboards. Although the actual set up in the Kitchen area Cabinets isn'tall that onerous, the vital very first step is measuring and marking out wherever the cabinets will go. By placing layout markings to the partitions and flooring, it's going to don't just make it easier to with kitchen area cupboard placement and stud destinations, however it will even help you find where by changes and shims are going to be expected. Before we start out you can find a few of things that you will want for the challenge:


Level or Laser Level


Tape Evaluate

Stud Finder


1" x 3" Piece of lumber (6'-8' in size) or an Inverted U-shaped body (see notes beneath)


Screws (long ample to go one 1/2 into your studs)

Utility knife or chisel

Marking Compass

An extra established of palms (you might should bribe one of the friends)

As I mentioned above, you have got the choice of using a bit of 1' x 3' lumber to the set up or creating a frame to guidance the cabinets (I have bundled an image of the sample frame underneath). This may be made out of 2' x 4's and should be tall ample to support the underside of one's wall cupboards. For those who approach on setting up more than one kitchen, then I would recommend the body, but a chunk of lumber will do exactly great if it is a a person time occasion. In both scenario, you are going to have to have one more set of palms that will help while using the set up.

In this instance we bought (RTA) Ready-To-Assemble Kitchen Cabinets from RTA Kitchen area & Bathroom Cabinet Store. Now the kitchen cupboards are assembled, we are prepared to start marking out our layout lines. Some people start with the base cabinets, but we are going to start using the wall cabinets very first. There is no right or wrong way to start, I just prefer to start using the upper cupboards initial.

one. Use a amount and a pencil to draw a parallel line across the wall about 3 inches up from the floor. Measure down from this line, on the floor, and find the flooring high point (if it has 1), and mark a line at that point. From that high point, Measure up 34 1/2 inches and draw a level line across the wall to designate the top with the base cabinets.

2. Now that you've the top in the base cabinets marked, evaluate up an additional 19 1/2 inches and a amount line across the wall to indicate the underside of your wall cabinets. Lightly mark each cabinets' dimensions and placement on the wall to make sure that your original layout is correct.

three. Use a stud finder to find the wall studs. Use a pencil to mark the stud areas at least 6 inches higher than and underneath the line to the bottom in the wall cabinets. Draw straight vertical lines between the top and base marks to indicate the center with the studs.

4. For those who decided to go with all the bit of 1' x 3' lumber, now is where you may use (in case you decided to go with the U-shaped body, it will eventually come into play after all your lines are laid out). Screw a temporary 1' x 3' help rail into the wall, aligning the top edge in the rail with the line for your bottom edge of the wall cabinets. Attach it by driving 3 or 4 two inch screws through the rail in to the wall studs.

5. Now that we have all the lines marked, it is time to start setting up your kitchen area cupboards. We are going to start along with the corner cabinet (here is where your helper's excess established of fingers will likely be needed). Place the corner cupboard onto the temporary help rail and have your helper hold the corner cupboard in place. Drill pilot holes through the sturdy cabinet back or its help rail and in to the wall studs. Screw the cabinet to the wall applying two screws that are extensive more than enough to penetrate the studs by at least one 1/2 inches. Check the top in the cabinet for level and the front on the cabinet for plumb. In the event you really have to correct the position, just back the screws out a little bit and top shims behind the cabinet at the stud areas. If it is plumb and amount, drive the screws all the way in and add several more into each stud to ensure that the cabinet is secured tightly to your wall.

6. Now we are going to move onto the cabinets on both side from the corner cupboard. As you install each just one, use the clamps to secure each cabinet into the neighboring cabinet and then check it for plumb with your stage. On faceframe cabinets, it is really a good idea to drill two 1/8 inch pilot holes through the sides of the faceframe and use screws. In this case, with frameless, ready-to-assemble kitchen cabinets we are going to screw through the plywood sides and use shims in between the cabinets to ensure a tight fit and make sure that the cupboard faces are plumb.

7. After all the wall cabinets are in place, install the corner or end base case cabinet. Use shims the place needed to level the cupboard and raise it up to the line which indicates the high point of your floor. Be sure it is stage from front to back and from side to side, then screw it to the wall studs. In case you don't have a diagonal corner cabinet or blind base cabinet in the corner, push the adjoining cabinet into place and clamp the two units together. Add a filler strip if needed to allow the doors and drawers sufficient clearance to open and close properly. If necessary, tap shims under the cabinet and behind it to adjust for plumb and degree.

8. Drive screws through the cabinet back (and shims) into the wall studs. Trim any excess material from the shims with a sharp chisel or knife. Continue to add adjoining cabinets within this manner, joining them the same way you connected the wall cupboards in stage 6.

9. If your cabinets end up butting against a different wall, you could need to have a filler strip to make up the last few inches. When you have custom cupboards, they ought to have been built to fill this gap, but if you are working with stock or RTA Kitchen Cabinets the filler strip might be needed. Should you do have to have to use a filler strip, leave the last cabinet detached from the other cabinets. Clamp a straightedge to your face in the nearest installed unit, extending far more than enough for you to put alignment marks to the end wall. Allow a 3/4" offset behind those marks (for that thickness from the filler piece) and fasten a cleat to the wall. Then put in and fasten the last cupboard and measure the gap between its face body and the wall.

If the wall is flat, simply rip the filler board to your needed width and fasten it in place. If the wall is irregular, you'll really need to scribe-fit the filler board. Start by setting a marking compass to the width with the gap, then place a strip of 1"-wide masking tape along the filler board in the area in which it needs to be trimmed. Clamp the board on the end cabinet's face frame, then trace the wall contour using the compass. Remove the board and cut along the scribe line with a jig saw, then reinstall it to check the fit. When it's right, drive screws through the adjacent face frame to the edge from the filler board. Screw or nail the other side into the cleat.

At this point, your kitchen area cupboard installation is complete. In the event you purchased matching crown molding or any other details, these must be easily installed now. Depending on whether you had to use shims under the base cabinets, you could possibly need to put in some trim pieces by the toe kicks to cover up the shims or any gaps at the underside of your kitchen area cupboards.

I hope this helps make your kitchen cupboard installation as smooth as possible. In the event you want any help with cabinet selection, kitchen layout tips, or ideas for cabinet styles, check out RTA Kitchen & Bathroom Cupboard Store.

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